Welcome

I am a Swedish Mountain Guide based in Chamonix. My aim is to personalise the experience for every guest and give then the very best mountain experience on any given day. I specialise in taking guests off the beaten track. By using a little extra effort, imagination and local knowledge it is possible, even in high season,  to avoid the crowds or find untracked runs long after the last snow fall.

I offer a variety of activities, from hiking and rock climbing to Mont Blanc ascents and Vallee Blanche descents. I can also make some suggestions of spectacular outings equal in experience to the classics, but less well know!

After 25 years of playing in the mountains, I still love to go exploring, and it gives me great pleasure to share this joy with my guests. Do you enjoy great adventures?

Below you will find information about what I have to offer and hopefully inspiration for your next mountain adventure. There is a short presentation and some background on myself. Contact info can be found at the bottom of the page.

Vallée Blanche. Photo M Salén.
Aiguille d'Entreves. Photo F Ekblad.

Climbing 

 

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The Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, two of the most iconic mountains in Europe are best attempted outside of the peak summer season. By planning carefully we can avoid crowds which detract from the experience and increase the risk of rock fall. Sometimes sections of the climb can offer more challenge, the reward, to experience the full grandeur of these giants, almost by yourself.

In high season it is better to escape the most popular alpine summits and look elsewhere. There are many overlooked 4000m peaks or just under at 3900m. Many of these summits have exceptional quality routes that rarely see traffic. On these lesser known but equally awesome lines, you can climb in isolation, more often than not just you and your partner.

Mountaineering

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The Mont Blanc range can offer highly technical rocky summits for instance Les Drus, Grand Capucin and the Chamonix Aiguilles. These routes gives a taste of how climbing a big Patagonia summit would feel.
More rock adventures can be found else where in the Apls, for example the Piz Badile, in the Dolomites or the Salbitschijen in Switzerland are excellent alternatives.
In northern Norway, the sharp peaks of Stetind and Kugelhorn, Reka and the Priest in Lofoten offer world class rock quality all the way to the top. These are considered more technical climbs where you will wear rock climbing shoes.
Autumn is a good time to go to Kalymnos and enjoy one of the best sport climbing destinations in the world, delicious greek food and the warm mediteranean sea. With plenty of long routes, Kalymnos the perfect place to learn the basics or improve your climbing level.

Rock

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In the winter the mountains are coated in snow and ice. This opens new routes unavailable in the summer; icy couloirs and goulottes, which can be pure alpine ice or sometimes more mixed with ice and rock. When the weather at high altitude is unstable, we climb frozen waterfalls at a lower altitude. A great location within a short drive from Chamonix is Cogne. An alternative activity, which is becoming a sport in it's own right is called dry-tooling. Both these low altitude activities provide invaluable training for winter mountaineering and offer a brilliant day out !

Winter Climbing

Skiing

 

Chamonix and Lyngen. Two world class ski destinations.

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Iconic Chamonix is where I work for the first half of the winter. Early in the winter, Chamonix is not as busy and has some of the best options for lift accessed or short skinning cold powder runs. Also this time of year I offer avalanche courses or beginners ski touring courses. I tailor make my course to the level of my guests and usually run them for 1-3 days. An investment of time early season can save lives and increase the breadth of options to ski tour later. So get in touch, new knowledge won’t weigh you down!

Chamonix

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My favorite place for ski touring, the Lyngen Alps close to Tromso in northern Norway. Come the spring, the sun is back in Lyngen. In recent years I have been working in partnership with my good friend Jimmy who runs Ascent Descent. The lodge is based at the very northern tip of the Lyngen alps. Ascent Descent offers comfortable accommodation in a splendid setting and the possibilities for good ski touring are endless. Whether you are a novice or very experienced, there is something for everyone. Do not hesitate to contact Jimmy through the link to Ascent Descent at the bottom of the page.

Lyngen

About Me 

I have had a fascination for mountains and skiing for as long as I can remember, my first contact with climbing, was in the early 90s in the middle of Sweden. Little did I know how much that was going to shape my life.

My motivation to climb and ski drove me to pursue these activities relentlessly for nearly 20 years before becoming a professional guide.

I started my journey of bringing people into the mountains in 2000, whilst I was studying in Gothenburg. I took my international climbing instructor certificate and since then, I have had the pleasure of meeting hundreds of students and seeing some of them continuing to become true experts.

I have spent many years in northern Scandinavia, teaching and guiding both climbing and skiing. I lived in Tromsø where I still spend a few months each year.

In the spring of 2015 I became a fully qualified International Mountain Guide, often shortened UIAGM or IFMGA. It was a demanding training programme that takes between three to five years to complete, that is  once you have the qualifications to start. To become accepted normally takes between five to ten years of dedication.

The first mountain I climbed remains to this day one of the most memorable climbing experiences I have had. The South Pillar of Stetind really captured my imagination for this sport, to guide this magnificent route would be one of the best days at work I can imagine!

If I had to pick the best route I have ever climbed, I would have to say the North Pillar of Chalten, also known as Mount Fitzroy, which I climbed in 2012 holds this position for me. One of my sweetest memories on skis is from 1999.  I was a relative novice navigating the Glacier Rond alone, carrying a huge mountaineering back pack,  without anything to follow but my instinct. More recently in 2016 I had another memorable solo mission on the East Face of Russetind, possibly the most awesome looking face in Norway.

Here is a link to an nice article in Alpinist Magazine on Trakta, Norways most technical peak that I guided a few years back.

Finally a word about environmental impact and sustainability which have always been important issues for me. I accept that travel, often by plane is deeply integrated into the idea of the adventure and the unknown. I try to make a tiny difference by offering 10% discount to everyone who makes their journey by train or sharing a car instead of flying to the alps or elsewhere. Furthermore I donate 2 euros per day guiding to POW (Protect Our Winters)  for their effort to raise awareness about climate change and how we as a group of people who enjoy the mountains,  can make a difference.

Here is a link to an nice and informative article in Alpinist Magazine on Trakta, Norways most technical peak that I guided a few years back, and the other inspiring summits.

Courmayeur 2016

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