I am a Swedish mountain guide working around Tromsø and Chamonix. My aim is to give every guest the best possible mountain experience on any given day. However, the safety of my guests and myself always come first.

I offer a variety of activities. From hiking and long alpine rock climbing to Mont Blanc ascents and Vallée Blanche descents. My speciality is lesser known peaks and ski runs off the beaten track. By using a little imagination and local knowledge, hiking or skinning a little extra, it’s usually not difficult too avoid the crowds in high season or find untracked runs long after the last snow fall.

After 25 years of playing in the mountains, I still love to go exploring and it gives me great pleasure to share this joy with my guests.

Below you will find information about what I have to offer and hopefully inspiration for your next mountain adventure. There is a short presentation and some background about myself. Contact info can be found at the bottom of the page.

Vallée Blanche. Photo M Salén.
Aiguille d'Entreves. Photo F Ekblad.


Mont Blanc and The Matterhorn are the two most iconic mountains in Europe and rightly so. They can however be very crowded at times.  A good idea is therefore to plan an attempt outside high season. It might be slightly more challenging but the reward will also be greater when you get to experience the grandeur of these giants by yourself. The risk of getting hit by rocks, knocked of by other climbers or the warming by sun, will also be lower.

In high season it’s better to stay away from the most popular alpine summits and look elsewhere. There are many 4000 meter peaks that don’t see much traffic and hundreds of magnificent 3900ers where you often can have the whole mountain to yourself.

The Mont Blanc range also offer highly technical  and sharp summits like Les Drus, Grand Capucin and the Chamonix Aiguilles to name a few. These peaks are constantly calling on climbers attention and reaching the summit of any of them is a worthy goal for anyone with previous rock climbing experience. Similar adventures can be found on Piz Badile, in the italian Dolomites or why not on Salbitschijen in Switzerland, the possibilities are close to endless.

In northern Norway, the sharp summits of Stetind and Kugelhorn, Reka and the Priest in Lofoten all offer world class rock quality all the way to the top. These are all considered technical climbs with no easy way to the top and  you will wear rock climbing shoes for the whole climb or sometimes parts of it. The nature is breathtaking and among the most beautiful in the world.

Autumn is a perfect time to go to Kalymnos and enjoy one of the best climbing destinations in the world, delicious greek food and the still warm mediteranean sea. There are plenty of long routes to choose from and it is also the perfect place to learn the basics or improve your level of climbing.

In winter the mountains are coated in snow and ice. This opens routes unavailable in the summer; icy couloirs and goulottes, which can be pure alpine ice or mixed with ice and rock. When the weather at high altitude is unstable, we climb frozen waterfalls at a lower altitude. A great location within a short drive from Chamonix is Cogne, in Italy. An alternative activity, which is becoming a sport in it’s own right, is called dry-tooling. Both these low altitude activities provide invaluable training for winter mountaineering and offer a brilliant day out.


Chamonix, Tromsø and Lyngen. All world class ski destinations.

 Chamonix is where I ski for the first half of the winter. Early season, Chamonix is not busy and has some of the best lift accessed cold powder runs in the world. This time of year I also run avalanche courses, beginners ski touring courses and ski mountaineering courses. I tailor make every course to suit the level of the participants  and usually run them for 1-3 days. Invest some time in the early season to increase your safety and the breadth of options to ski tour later. New knowledge won’t weigh you down.

Come springtime and the sun is back at 69 degrees north. From early March until late May northern Norway offers amazing possibilities. I’ve skied here for 10 years by now and the to-do-list magically never get any shorter! Whether you are a novice or very experienced, there is something for everyone. By now many skiers have heard about Lyngen but there is also an almost endless amount of ski mountains within an short drive from Tromso making it a good, comfortable and urban base camp.

About Me 

I have had a fascination for mountains and skiing for as long as I can remember. My first contact with climbing was in the early 90s in the middle of Sweden. Little did I know how much it was going to shape my life.

A rather strong motivation to climb and ski drove me to pursue these activities relentlessly for nearly 20 years before becoming a professional guide. 

In early 2000 while studying in Gothenburg, I took my international climbing instructor certificate (UIAA) and have since then had the pleasure of meeting hundreds of students and also seeing some of them continuing to become true experts at a very high level.

As the years passed I came to spend more and more time in northern Scandinavia, teaching and guiding both climbing and skiing, and I eventually decided to live in Tromsø where I still spend a few months each year.

Since the spring of 2015 I am a fully qualified international mountain guide, often shortened UIAGM or IFMGA. It ‘s a demanding training programme that takes between three to five years to complete once you have the qualifications to start. To become accepted in to the program take at least five to ten years of dedication.

Environmental impact and sustainability have always been important issues for me and not always easy to combine with the values and history of our activities where travel, often by  air, are deeply integrated into the idea of the adventure and the unknown. I try to make a tiny difference by offering a 10% discount to guests who choose to travel by train or sharing a car instead of flying to the alps or elsewhere. Furthermore I donate 2 euros per day guiding to http://protectourwinters.se for their effort to raise awareness about climate change and how we as a group can make a difference. 

When asked to pick out the two most memorable experiences I have had climbing I would choose the South pillar of Stetind which was my first real mountain climb in 1996 and the North pillar of Chalten, also known as Mount Fitzroy, in 2012. To guide the south pillar of Stetind is today one of the best days at work I can imagine.

My strongest memories skiing is from year 2000 when, as a relative novice, I was navigating the Glacier Rond alone and carrying a huge mountaineering back pack,  just following my own instinct. More recently in 2016 I had another memorable solo mission on the east face of Store Russetind, possibly the most awesome looking ski descent in Norway.

Courmayeur 2016

Lyngen Alps 3D Map

For a long time I’ve wanted to have a 3D map of the Lyngen Alps. Last year I decided to start develop one and now it’s finally here. If you want, you can have one too!

It comes with a simple wooden frame and the size is 65×53 cm. Estimated price is 1950 Nok.

Contact me on info@magnus-mountainguide.com for more info or to place an order.

The maps have received massive acclaim and we are already working on other areas. This is hopefully just a start.